Andong Hahoe Folk Village from Seoul: How to Get There and What to See
The easiest way to visit Andong Hahoe Folk Village from Seoul is to take the KTX-Eum train from Cheongnyangni Station to Andong Station (roughly two hours), then ride a local bus or a taxi about 25–30 km west to the village. Plan a full day, or better, stay one night: Hahoe is a living Joseon-era clan village on a bend of the Nakdong River, and it is at its best in the quiet early morning and late afternoon after the day buses leave.
Why Hahoe is worth the trip
Hahoe Village has been home to the Ryu (Pungsan Ryu) clan for roughly six centuries. Together with Yangdong Village near Gyeongju, it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2010 as one of the "Historic Villages of Korea." What makes it different from a museum-style folk village is that people still live here. You walk past tiled-roof yangban (aristocrat) houses and thatched-roof commoner homes, many of them private residences, along earthen lanes with low stone walls.
The name "Hahoe" roughly means "river turning around," and you can see why from the cliff on the opposite bank: the Nakdong River wraps almost all the way around the village, which sits like a small island of rooftops in the middle of fields and pine forest.
How to get from Seoul to Andong
By train (recommended)
KTX-Eum trains on the Jungang Line run from Cheongnyangni Station in northeast Seoul to Andong Station. The ride takes about two hours. Note that Cheongnyangni is not Seoul Station; it is on subway Line 1 and the Gyeongui–Jungang Line, so give yourself time to get there. Book on the official Korail website or the Korail Talk app; weekend and holiday trains can sell out, so buy a few days ahead. For a step-by-step look at booking Korean trains as a visitor, see our KTX booking guide — the process is the same for Andong.
By express bus
Buses to Andong leave from Seoul's major terminals, such as Dong Seoul Bus Terminal and the Express Bus Terminal. The bus is usually a little slower than the train and depends on traffic, but it can be convenient if you are staying on the east or south side of the city. Andong Station and Andong Bus Terminal are next to each other, which makes onward connections simple.
From Andong Station to Hahoe Village
Hahoe is not in central Andong. You have three realistic options:
- Local bus. A city bus runs from the Andong Station / bus terminal area to Hahoe Village. Route numbers have changed in recent years and older blogs still list the old number, so check the current route and departure times in Naver Map or Kakao Map, or ask at the tourist information desk at Andong Station. Buses are infrequent (roughly hourly or less), so note the return times as soon as you arrive. T-money works on the bus.
- Taxi. A taxi from the station takes around 30–40 minutes. It is the most flexible choice for a day trip, especially if you also want to visit Byeongsan Seowon or Buyongdae.
- Tours. Some day tours from Seoul combine Hahoe with other Gyeongsangbuk-do sights. They save planning time but leave less freedom to linger.
Buses and taxis stop at the ticket office and parking area, not inside the village. From there, a short shuttle bus or a pleasant walk of about a kilometer brings you to the village entrance. There is an admission fee; check the official Andong tourism site for the current price.
What to see in Hahoe Village
Yangjindang and Chunghyodang
These are two of the grandest clan houses in the village. Yangjindang is the head house of the Pungsan Ryu clan, and Chunghyodang is associated with the family of Ryu Seong-ryong, a celebrated Joseon scholar-official and prime minister during the Imjin War of the 1590s. Look at the raised wooden floors, the courtyards, and the separation between men's and women's quarters, which reflect Confucian household rules.
The old zelkova tree (Samsindang)
Near the center of the village stands a very old zelkova tree that villagers have long honored as a guardian spirit. Visitors write wishes on paper and tie them to the rope around it. It is a lovely spot to pause and see how folk belief and daily life mix here.
Mansongjeong pine forest and the riverbank
A strip of pine forest along the sandy riverbank was planted to protect the village from wind and floods. It is the best place for a slow walk, and in summer and autumn it is where you will find most of the shade.
Buyongdae Cliff
Across the river, Buyongdae is a cliff of about 60 meters that gives the classic view down onto the village wrapped by the Nakdong. Depending on the season and water level, a small ferry may cross the river; otherwise you reach it by road. If you only have time for one viewpoint, make it this one.
Hahoe Byeolsingut Talnori (mask dance)
Andong is famous for the Hahoe mask dance, a satirical folk drama in which masked characters mock aristocrats and monks. Regular performances are held at the performance hall near the village entrance, typically on certain days of the week in the main season. Schedules change, so check the official site before you go. If you visit in late September or early October, the Andong Maskdance Festival brings performers from across Korea and abroad.
Hahoe Mask Museum
Close to the parking area, this small museum displays masks from Korea and around the world, including replicas of the Hahoe masks, some of which are designated National Treasures. It is a good stop if the weather turns bad.
Nearby: Byeongsan Seowon
A few kilometers from Hahoe, Byeongsan Seowon is a Confucian academy linked to Ryu Seong-ryong. It is one of the nine seowon added to the UNESCO list in 2019. The main pavilion, Mandaeru, looks out over the river and cliffs and is one of the most photographed wooden buildings in Korea. Access is by a rough, narrow road, so a taxi is the practical choice.
What to eat in Andong
- Andong jjimdak — braised chicken with glass noodles, potatoes and vegetables in a sweet-savory soy sauce. The "jjimdak alley" inside Andong's old market is the classic place to try it, and portions are made for sharing.
- Salted mackerel (Andong gangodeungeo) — historically, fish carried inland from the coast was salted to survive the trip, and grilled salted mackerel became a local specialty.
- Heotjesabap — a modest bibimbap-style meal of seasoned vegetables served with soy sauce instead of gochujang, traditionally linked to ancestral rites.
Day trip or overnight?
A day trip is possible: an early train, a bus or taxi to Hahoe, three to four hours in the village and Buyongdae, then dinner in Andong before the train back. But Hahoe really rewards an overnight stay. Many houses run as hanok guesthouses (minbak), where you sleep on a heated ondol floor. Facilities vary from simple to comfortable, so read the listing carefully, especially about shared bathrooms. Staying the night also lets you see the village without crowds at sunset and sunrise.
LUMI from POPORO CITY says: "Walk the outer lane along the river at sunset — the rooftops turn gold and you can hear only the water."
Quick tips
- Take the train from Cheongnyangni, not Seoul Station.
- Check bus times in Naver Map or Kakao Map and photograph the return schedule as soon as you arrive.
- Remember that many houses are private homes: stay out of closed gates and keep your voice low.
- Wear comfortable shoes; the lanes are unpaved and dusty in dry weather and muddy after rain.
- Bring some cash for small shops and guesthouses, though cards work in most places.
- Combine Hahoe and Byeongsan Seowon by taxi if you have limited time.
FAQ
How long does it take to get from Seoul to Hahoe Village?
Plan on about three hours door to door: roughly two hours on the KTX-Eum from Cheongnyangni to Andong, plus 30–60 minutes by taxi or bus to the village.
Can I visit Hahoe Village as a day trip?
Yes. Leave Seoul early and you will have enough time for the village, Buyongdae and an Andong jjimdak dinner. An overnight stay is more relaxed and lets you see the village at its quietest.
Is Hahoe Village the same as the Korean Folk Village?
No. The Korean Folk Village in Yongin is a recreated open-air museum. Hahoe is an authentic village where descendants of the Ryu clan still live, which is why it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
When is the best time to visit?
Spring and autumn are the most comfortable. Late September to early October adds the Andong Maskdance Festival; autumn foliage usually follows in late October and early November. Summers are hot and winters are cold but very quiet.
Do I need to speak Korean?
Not really. Signs at the main sights include English, and map apps handle transport. Learning a few words helps, though — try our 30 basic Korean travel phrases.