Haedong Yonggungsa to Gijang: Seafood Market and Ahopsan Forest Route

Yes, you can link Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Daebyeon Port, Gijang Market and Ahopsan Forest into one easy day on Busan's northeast coast. The simplest order is: the seaside temple early in the morning, a short hop to Daebyeon Port, a crab or seafood lunch at Gijang Market, then a taxi inland to the bamboo groves of Ahopsan Forest in the afternoon. Everything sits inside Gijang-gun, so distances are short, but buses between the stops are infrequent, so plan on one or two short taxi rides.

This guide is for first-time visitors who already know the big Busan sights and want a calmer day with the sea, a working fishing port, a real local market and a quiet forest.

Why this route works

Most visitors come to Gijang only for Haedong Yonggungsa, take their photos and go straight back to Haeundae. That is a shame, because the area around the temple is one of the most relaxed parts of Busan. Within a short drive you have:

• Haedong Yonggungsa – a Buddhist temple built on rocks right above the waves, unusual in Korea where most temples hide in the mountains.
• Daebyeon Port – a small working harbour famous for anchovies, where you can watch boats unload and eat grilled fish by the water.
• Gijang Market – a traditional market that began as a five-day market in the 1940s and is now best known for snow crab and king crab restaurants.
• Ahopsan Forest – a privately managed forest of tall bamboo and old pine trees that a family has cared for over many generations, used as a filming location for K-dramas such as The King: Eternal Monarch.

It is a mix of sea, food and green shade that you cannot get in central Busan.

Suggested one-day route

Morning: Haedong Yonggungsa Temple

Go as early as you can. The temple is popular with tour groups, and by late morning the stone stairway down to the sea gets crowded. In the early light the sea is calmer, the photos are better and you can actually hear the waves. Allow about an hour to walk down the steps, see the main hall, the statues along the path and the view over the rocks.

Remember it is an active place of worship: speak quietly near the halls, do not step over prayer cushions and avoid photographing people who are praying. For directions by subway and bus, see our separate guide to getting to Haedong Yonggungsa.

Late morning: Daebyeon Port

Daebyeon Port is a short taxi ride north of the temple. It is a real fishing harbour rather than a tourist attraction, which is exactly its charm. Walk along the quay, look at the anchovy and fish stalls, and if you are hungry early, try grilled fish or a bowl of anchovy-based soup at one of the harbour restaurants.

Daebyeon is known across Korea for anchovies (myeolchi), and in spring the port hosts an anchovy festival. Outside festival season it is quiet, with fishermen mending nets and cats sleeping in the sun.

Lunch: Gijang Market

From Daebyeon, take a short taxi or local bus to Gijang Market in the centre of Gijang-eup. The market is also walkable from Gijang Station on the Donghae Line, which is useful for getting home later.

The main attraction is the crab alley, where restaurants keep tanks of live snow crab and king crab out front. The usual system:

1. Choose your crab from the tank (the staff will weigh it).
2. Agree on the price before it is cooked – crab is sold by weight and prices change with the season and the catch.
3. The restaurant steams it and serves it with side dishes. Many places offer to make fried rice in the crab shell at the end for a small extra charge.

Snow crab is at its best in winter, roughly December to February, so a late autumn or winter visit is ideal. If crab is outside your budget, the market also has stalls with seaweed, dried fish, rice cakes and simple snack food, and you can happily eat well for much less.

Afternoon: Ahopsan Forest

Ahopsan Forest sits inland in Cheolma-myeon, Gijang. Public transport is limited (there is a local village bus, but it does not run often), so for most visitors a taxi from Gijang Market or Gijang Station is the easiest option. Use Kakao Map or Naver Map to check the current bus if you prefer to save money.

Inside, gravel paths lead through dense bamboo groves where the light turns green and the noise of the city disappears, then up past tall pine trees. A relaxed loop takes about an hour to an hour and a half. There is an admission fee and the forest is only open in the daytime, with last entry in the late afternoon, so aim to arrive by mid-afternoon. Check the current fee and hours on the forest's official channels before you go.

Bring insect repellent in the warmer months, and wear shoes with some grip – the paths are not difficult, but some slopes are uneven.

Getting there and back

• From Haeundae or central Busan: take the Donghae Line to OSIRIA Station for the temple, then a bus or taxi the rest of the way.
• Between stops: temple, Daebyeon Port and Gijang Market are close together; taxis are cheap for these short hops and save a lot of waiting.
• Going home: from Ahopsan, take a taxi back to Gijang Station and ride the Donghae Line back towards Haeundae or Busan city.

If you are building a longer trip, our 3-day Busan itinerary by subway shows how this coast fits in with the rest of the city.

"Temple bells in the morning, crab steam at lunch and bamboo wind in the afternoon – Gijang is the slow side of Busan." – LUMI, POPORO CITY

Quick tips

• Start at Haedong Yonggungsa early in the morning to avoid the biggest crowds.
• Ask the crab price per kilogram and the total before cooking, and check whether side dishes and fried rice cost extra.
• Carry some cash; most market restaurants accept cards, but small stalls may prefer cash.
• Have Kakao T or another taxi app ready – it makes the short rides between stops much easier.
• Arrive at Ahopsan Forest well before last entry so you are not rushed.
• Weekdays are noticeably quieter than weekends at every stop.

FAQ

Can I do this route without a taxi?

Partly. The temple and Gijang Market are reachable by subway and bus, but Ahopsan Forest has only an infrequent village bus. If you want to avoid taxis completely, do the temple, Daebyeon and the market, and skip the forest or allow plenty of waiting time.

Is it worth going outside snow crab season?

Yes. The temple, the port and the forest are good all year, and the market has plenty of other seafood and snacks. Crab is simply at its best in winter.

How long does the whole route take?

Plan a full day: around an hour at the temple, an hour at Daebyeon Port, one to two hours for lunch at the market, and one to one and a half hours in the forest, plus travel time.

Is Ahopsan Forest suitable for children or older visitors?

Mostly yes – the paths are gentle, but there are some slopes and uneven gravel. Strollers may find a few sections bumpy.

Do I need to book anything in advance?

Individual visitors usually do not need reservations for any of these stops, but large groups may need to book Ahopsan Forest ahead. Always check the official sites for current details.