Deoksugung Palace: Changing of the Guard and the Stone-Wall Walk
Deoksugung is the palace in downtown Seoul right across from City Hall, and two things make it worth your time: the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony in front of Daehanmun Gate, and the Deoksugung Stone-Wall Walk (Doldam-gil) that curves along the palace wall. The ceremony is usually held at 11:00 and 14:00, not on Mondays, and the palace itself is also closed on Mondays. Times can change for weather, events or the season, so check the official Deoksugung or Seoul city website on the day you go.
Disclosure: KPOPORO may earn a commission if you book through some links, at no extra cost to you.
Why Deoksugung is different from the other palaces
Most visitors start with Gyeongbokgung, which is bigger and more famous. Deoksugung is smaller, but it has a story the others do not. It became the main royal residence at the very end of the Joseon era and during the short Korean Empire (1897–1910), when Emperor Gojong tried to modernise the country. That is why you will find something unusual inside: Western-style stone buildings standing next to traditional wooden halls.
Look for Seokjojeon, a neoclassical stone hall with columns that looks more like a European government building than a palace, and Jeonggwanheon, a pavilion that mixes Korean and Western design and is often described as a place where Gojong enjoyed coffee. Today Seokjojeon houses a museum on the Korean Empire, and the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art runs a branch in the stone building next to it. Opening of individual buildings and exhibitions can vary, so treat these as possible extras rather than guaranteed stops.
Because it is compact, you can see the main grounds in about an hour, which makes Deoksugung an easy add-on to a day around City Hall, Gwanghwamun or Myeongdong.
The Royal Guard Changing Ceremony
What happens
The ceremony is a reenactment of how royal guards once changed shifts at the palace gate. Guards in bright traditional uniforms march in, drums and traditional instruments play, and the officers exchange passwords and duties in a fixed ritual. It is colourful, loud in a good way, and very photogenic. Watching is free, and you do not need a palace ticket because it takes place outside the gate, in the plaza in front of Daehanmun.
When it runs
Current guides list the ceremony at 11:00 and 14:00, with no performance on Mondays. Some older listings also mention a mid-afternoon slot, so do not rely on it unless the official schedule confirms it. The ceremony can be cancelled in heavy rain, extreme heat or cold, or when there is an event in the plaza. Each performance takes roughly half an hour including the procession.
Where to stand
Arrive 10–15 minutes early. The best spots are along the rope line directly in front of Daehanmun Gate, where you see the guards face each other. If the front is full, standing slightly to the side near the stone-wall path gives you a good view of the procession as it arrives. Keep your bag in front of you and stay behind the line the staff set up.
Seoul also runs guard ceremonies at Gyeongbokgung. If you want to compare the two, see our guide to the Gyeongbokgung guard changing ceremony and the best viewing spot.
The Deoksugung Stone-Wall Walk (Doldam-gil)
The stone-wall road is a gently curving lane that follows the palace wall from Daehanmun toward Jeongdong. Old brick and stone walls, big ginkgo and zelkova trees and quiet side streets make it one of the most pleasant short walks in central Seoul. It is especially loved in autumn, when the ginkgo leaves turn yellow, and in the evening, when the lamps come on.
What you pass on the way
- Jeongdong area – historic churches and early modern buildings from the late 1800s, when foreign legations and schools gathered here.
- Seoul Museum of Art (main building) – just off the walk, in a historic building with a modern gallery inside.
- The palace-side path behind the wall – a section that was closed to the public for decades and has since been opened, letting you walk further along the wall.
There is a well-known local saying that couples who walk this road together will break up. It is a joke rooted in history (a family court used to be nearby), and plenty of couples walk it anyway.
How long it takes
Walking slowly with photo stops, the main stretch takes 20–40 minutes. It is flat and paved, so it works for most travellers, including families with strollers.
Visiting the palace grounds
Tickets and opening days
Entry to the palace grounds requires a small fee, and the palace is closed on Mondays. Deoksugung has some of the longest opening hours of Seoul's palaces and is popular for an evening walk when the buildings are lit. Exact hours and the last entry time change by season, so check before you go. If you plan to see several palaces, our guide to the Seoul palace pass for five palaces explains whether a combined ticket makes sense.
Free entry in hanbok
Like the other royal palaces in Seoul, Deoksugung has generally offered free entry to visitors wearing hanbok. Rules on what counts as hanbok can change, so check the current guidance. If you want to dress up for photos along the stone wall, you can book a rental such as this hanbok rental and photo shoot in Seoul or the Gyeongbokgung hanbok rental and walk over to Deoksugung by subway or on foot.
How to get there
- Subway: City Hall Station (Lines 1 and 2). Exits on the Deoksugung side are a very short walk from Daehanmun Gate.
- From Gwanghwamun: a 10–15 minute walk south past the plaza and City Hall.
- From Myeongdong: roughly a 15–20 minute walk, or one stop on the subway.
Use Naver Map or Kakao Map for live directions; they show the exact exit and walking route.
A simple half-day plan
- Arrive at Daehanmun around 10:45 for the 11:00 ceremony.
- Enter the palace and see Junghwajeon, Seokjojeon and Jeonggwanheon (about an hour).
- Exit and walk the stone-wall road toward Jeongdong.
- Have lunch around Jeongdong or City Hall, or continue on foot to Gwanghwamun.
Bino, a fitness coach in POPORO CITY, likes to put it this way: "Watch the guards, then match their pace on the wall walk. Best warm-up in the city."
Quick tips
- Do not plan a Monday visit: no ceremony and the palace is closed.
- Get to the gate 10–15 minutes before the ceremony for a front-row view.
- Autumn ginkgo season and evenings are the prettiest times for the stone-wall walk.
- The palace is compact; one hour is enough for the main grounds.
- Check weather: the ceremony may be cancelled in rain or extreme temperatures.
FAQ
Is the Deoksugung guard ceremony free?
Yes. It takes place outside Daehanmun Gate, so anyone can watch without a palace ticket.
What time is the Deoksugung changing of the guard?
It is usually held at 11:00 and 14:00, Tuesday to Sunday. Confirm on the official schedule, as times and cancellations can change.
Can I walk the stone-wall road on a Monday?
Yes. The stone-wall road is a public street outside the palace, so you can walk it any day, even when the palace is closed.
How long should I spend at Deoksugung?
About two hours covers the ceremony, the palace grounds and the stone-wall walk at a relaxed pace.
Is Deoksugung worth it if I have already seen Gyeongbokgung?
Yes, because it shows a different chapter of history, with Western-style buildings from the Korean Empire era that you will not see at Gyeongbokgung.