Sokcho Abai Village and Gaetbae Ferry: How to Visit

Short answer: Abai Village (Cheongho-dong) is a small fishing neighbourhood on a sandbar in central Sokcho, founded by refugees from North Korea's Hamgyeong Province during the Korean War. The easiest and most memorable way in is the gaetbae, a tiny flat ferry that passengers help pull across a narrow channel by hand on a steel cable. The crossing takes only a couple of minutes, the fare is a few hundred won (bring cash), and the ferry dock is a short bus or taxi ride from both Sokcho bus terminals. Plan one to two hours for the village, a bowl of noodles and a plate of abai sundae, then combine it with the beach, the seafood market or Seoraksan.

What is Abai Village?

"Abai" is a Hamgyeong dialect word for an older man, roughly "grandpa" or "old fellow". During the Korean War (1950–1953), many people from the northeast of the peninsula fled south by boat and settled on this empty strip of sand between Cheongcho Lake and the sea, expecting to go home once the fighting stopped. The border never reopened, and the temporary shacks slowly became a permanent village of low houses, narrow alleys and family-run restaurants.

Today Abai Village is one of the clearest places in South Korea to feel the story of divided families. It is not a museum or a theme park: people live and work here, boats come and go, and the food still follows northern recipes. Many Korean visitors also know it as a filming location of the 2000 drama Autumn in My Heart, and you will see photos and small signs about it around the dock.

The gaetbae: the hand-pulled ferry

The gaetbae is a flat-bottomed barge that runs back and forth across a channel only a few dozen metres wide, linking the downtown side (near Sokcho City Hall and Jungang-dong) with Cheongho-dong. There is no engine. A steel cable is stretched across the water, and a ferry worker, often helped by passengers, hooks an iron bar onto the cable and walks the boat across. Joining in is optional but fun, and most visitors give it a try for a photo.

Tickets and fare

Tickets are one way and bought at the small booth on the dock.
Recent guides list the fare at around 500 won for adults and less for children. It changes occasionally, so treat that as a rough figure.
Bring small cash (coins or 1,000-won notes). Do not count on card payment at the booth.
The ferry runs continuously during the day; you rarely wait more than a few minutes. Very strong winds or maintenance can pause it, so check locally if the weather is bad.

Is there another way across?

Yes. Abai Village is also connected by road bridges (the Seorak and Geumgang bridges), so taxis and buses can reach the village directly and you can walk over if the ferry is not running. Most people take the gaetbae one way for the experience and walk or ride back.

How to get to Abai Village

From Seoul to Sokcho

Express buses run from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Gangnam) and Dong Seoul Bus Terminal (Gangbyeon Station, Line 2) to Sokcho, usually taking around two and a half hours without heavy traffic. Weekend and holiday buses fill up, so book a return seat in advance on the official bus booking sites or apps. For a full breakdown of the trip, see our guide Seoul to Sokcho by Bus: Seoraksan, Beach and Seafood Market.

From the Sokcho bus terminals to the ferry

Sokcho has two terminals about 3 km apart, so check which one your ticket says:

Sokcho Express Bus Terminal (most buses from Seoul Express Bus Terminal): local buses such as 1, 7 or 9 go towards the City Hall stop, about five minutes' walk from the downtown ferry dock. A taxi is a very short ride.
Sokcho Intercity Bus Terminal (many buses from Dong Seoul): buses such as 7-1 or 9-1 also stop near City Hall, and Sokcho Jungang Market is within walking distance, so you can pair the two easily.

Bus numbers and routes in smaller cities do change. Type "Abai Village" or "아바이마을 갯배" into Naver Map or Kakao Map for live directions; both work well in Sokcho.

What to see and do

Walk the alleys

The village is compact. After the ferry, wander the lanes between the lagoon and the sea: low houses, drying squid and fish in season, old murals and small signs telling refugee stories. Remember these are homes, so keep your voice down, do not open gates, and ask before photographing people.

Look out to sea

Walk a few minutes to the seaward side of the sandbar for open views of the East Sea and the coastline. On clear days, the Seorak mountain range rises behind the city, which makes for a striking photo across the lagoon.

Sokcho Jungang Market

Back on the downtown side, Sokcho Jungang Market (also signed as Sokcho Tourist & Fishery Market) is the classic next stop for fried chicken boxes, fish cakes, fresh seafood and dried snacks to take home. Combining the gaetbae, the village and the market fills a relaxed half day.

What to eat in Abai Village

The real reason many Koreans come here is the northern-style food.

Abai sundae – a large sausage stuffed with rice, vegetables and pork blood, a Hamgyeong-style take on sundae. It is usually sliced and served on a platter, sometimes pan-fried in egg.
Ojingeo sundae (squid sundae) – a whole squid stuffed with a savoury filling, sliced and pan-fried. It is the signature Sokcho dish and easy for first-timers to enjoy.
Hamheung-style naengmyeon – chewy, thin cold noodles, often served spicy with raw fish (hoe naengmyeon). Good even in winter.
Gajami sikhae – fermented flounder with rice and chilli, a northern side dish with a sour, punchy flavour. Try a little before ordering more.

Many restaurants line the lane right by the ferry dock on the village side. Menus often have photos; pointing works fine. Prices vary, so check the board at the entrance before you sit down.

LUMI from POPORO CITY says: "Pull the rope once, eat squid sundae twice. That is the Sokcho rule."

When to go

Weekdays and mornings are calmest. On summer weekends and long holidays the dock can get busy with queues for the ferry and popular restaurants.
Summer pairs well with Sokcho Beach nearby.
Autumn is popular because of the Seoraksan foliage, so the city is crowded in October; book buses early.
Winter is cold and windy on the sandbar but clear, with fewer crowds. Dress warmly for the ferry.

Suggested half-day route

Arrive at the City Hall area and walk to the downtown gaetbae dock.
Cross by gaetbae and help pull the cable.
Lunch in Abai Village: squid sundae and naengmyeon.
Walk the alleys and the seaward edge of the sandbar.
Cross back by ferry or walk over the bridge, then browse Sokcho Jungang Market.
Head to Sokcho Beach for sunset, or catch a local bus towards Seoraksan the next morning.

Quick tips

Carry small cash for the ferry and some market stalls.
Wear shoes with grip; the ferry deck can be wet.
Use Naver Map or Kakao Map rather than Google Maps for buses and walking routes.
Be respectful in the residential alleys and keep drones away.
Book weekend return buses to Seoul in advance.
Check the official Sokcho city tourism site or Visit Korea for any ferry suspensions.

FAQ

How long does the gaetbae ferry ride take?

Only a couple of minutes. The channel is very narrow, so the ride is more of a fun experience than real transport.

Do I have to pull the ferry myself?

No. A ferry worker operates it, and passengers can help if they want. Children usually love it, but keep hands clear of the cable.

Can I pay for the gaetbae with a card or T-money?

Plan on cash. Fares are small, and the dock booth is set up for coins and small notes.

Is Abai Village worth visiting if I only have one day in Sokcho?

Yes, if you like food and local history. It is close to downtown and the market, so you can see it in one to two hours and still visit Seoraksan or the beach.

Can I visit Abai Village and Seoraksan on the same day?

It is possible if you start early: hike or ride the cable car at Seoraksan in the morning, then come down for a late lunch in Abai Village. Our Seoraksan from Seoul guide covers the mountain side.