Why Do Koreans Eat Hotteok and Eomuk Broth at Bus Stops in Winter?

Koreans eat hotteok and drink hot eomuk broth at bus stops in winter because the snack stalls are set up exactly where people stand and wait in the cold. A stall next to a busy stop or subway exit sells cheap, fast, hot food: a fish cake skewer and a paper cup of steaming broth, or a sweet pancake filled with melted brown sugar. You can finish it before your bus arrives, it warms your hands and stomach, and for many Koreans it is simply what winter tastes like.

What are hotteok and eomuk?

Hotteok (호떡)

Hotteok is a flat, chewy pancake made from yeasted dough, stuffed with brown sugar, cinnamon and often chopped nuts or seeds, then pressed flat and fried on a griddle. The sugar melts into a hot syrup inside. Busan is famous for ssiat hotteok, opened up and filled with sunflower and pumpkin seeds. Some stalls sell versions with vegetables and glass noodles, or green-tea dough.

Eomuk (어묵) or odeng

Eomuk is Korean fish cake, folded onto long wooden skewers and simmered in a big tray of broth made with radish, kelp and anchovy or similar stock. Older Koreans often call it odeng, a word borrowed from Japanese. The broth is the real star in winter: at most stalls you can ladle it into a paper cup yourself while you eat.

Why bus stops and subway exits?

Foot traffic. Commuters, students and shoppers all pass the same stops twice a day.
Waiting time. A skewer takes about a minute to eat, perfect for the gap before a bus.
Cold. Korean winters are dry and freezing, and a hot drink you can hold is welcome at a windy stop.
After school. Many Koreans grew up stopping at a bunsik stall on the way home for eomuk, tteokbokki and sundae with friends.

Many stalls are small tented carts called pojangmacha (포장마차). In recent years cities have regulated street vending more strictly, and some carts have been replaced by licensed booths or moved into markets, so you will find them clustered near big stations, markets and university areas rather than at every stop.

How to eat at an eomuk stall

Walk up and pick a skewer straight from the broth tray. You do not need to order first.
Dip it in the soy sauce container if there is one, or brush it with the sauce brush. Do not double-dip after biting at stalls with a shared pot; use the brush or spoon if provided.
Take a paper cup and ladle broth for yourself. Broth is normally free with your skewer.
Keep your empty skewer sticks. When you are done, the vendor counts the sticks to work out what you owe.
Pay the vendor. Many stalls take cards or bank transfer now, but carrying some cash is still wise.

How to eat hotteok without burning yourself

Hotteok is usually handed over folded in a paper cup or wrapped in paper. The sugar filling is extremely hot right off the griddle. Bite a small hole near the edge first, let the steam out, and tilt it so the syrup does not drip on your coat. A hotteok and a cup of eomuk broth together are a classic sweet-and-salty pair.

A winter mood, not just a snack

For Koreans, the first steam rising from a street stall is a sign that the season has turned, like the first bungeoppang (fish-shaped pastry) cart. Read why Koreans line up for bungeoppang and other winter snacks, and our Korean street food guide for where to try more.

Quick tips

Look near big subway exits, traditional markets and university streets for the busiest stalls.
Stalls run mostly from late autumn to early spring; hours vary, and many close early on very cold or rainy days.
Keep your skewer sticks until you pay.
Let hotteok cool for a minute before the first bite.
Carry small cash as a backup even if you plan to pay by card.

FAQ

Is the eomuk broth free?

At most street stalls, yes, when you buy a skewer. Some places with a separate cup of soup may charge, so watch what locals do.

Is eomuk the same as odeng?

Yes. Eomuk is the Korean word for fish cake; odeng is an older loanword from Japanese that many people still use.

Is hotteok vegetarian?

The classic sweet hotteok usually contains only dough, sugar, cinnamon and nuts or seeds, but frying oil and doughs vary; ask the vendor if you are strict.

When can I find these stalls?

They are most common from around November to February, though some stalls in markets and tourist areas sell all year.